The rear cargo lamp was an impulse grab. It's the same color and will fit nicely into the original look. Eventually I will work out a rear cargo lighting solution but this will suffice for now. I still have to install the light pucks into the liftgate. The interior trim panel for the liftgate has only two broken tabs holding the "Christmas Tree" push pins. I broke nearly all of mine trying the panel off.
The plastic was terribly brittle and it didn't take much to snap the tabs out. Since mine wasn't equipped I wasn't sure if I would install an aftermarket.
They usually look tacky so I kept the one I had in a box for later if I really needed it. So the brake lamp was intact with a good lens so I grabbed it.
My gate has the mounting holes for the screws and screw inserts. I just need the inserts. Broke the two on the '95 trying to pinch the catches and extract them. Again, brittle plastic. Lastly on the '95 is the liftgate hinge shims. My gate isn't lining up so I took the shims. I wanted the hinges too but couldn't find the T27 Torx socket bit to get them off. I found it later working on the Quick Disconnect sway bar links. In the bottom of the wrong ammo box of tools.
While working on the '95 I found a piece of aluminium that was in the way. I didn't want to keep from stepping on it so I tossed it aside. It landed other-side-up and saw it was diamond plate. I tossed that into the barrow.
On the '88 I grabbed the left side switch panel with the fog lamp and rear defrost switches. The '88 sported power windows and locks and all the switch panels were taken including the interior handle to open the doors with. I don't know yet if the '88s power window regulator and motor is workable in my '93 so I need to get to work on that aspect. It's a simple matter and if the '95 had power windows I would have had it. Two '96s would have worked but they were removed too soon from the yard as they both had lots of parts left.
One was a Country that was loaded. I have been working on the clock and did get it working. The color coding wasn't consistent with any of the schematics for so I had to probe around to determine the pinout. So I took it out to the Jeep to make sure it fit correctly in the same space as on the ' It did.
So I gathered up a few things to bring into the house and as I stepped through the door the connector caught on the jamb and was pulled off the stack. It fell to the door sill, bounced out the door on to the concrete porch and tumbled off into the grass. I put the stuff down somewhere and retrieved it. After putting the stuff away I checked the clock and found a few segments stopped working. I snipped the plastic rivets to open it up to see if I could fix it and found the LCD display uses some kind of carbon strips to attach the contacts via ultra-sonic soldering techiniques.
One whole strip had come clean off rendering the clock unviewable. For now I am pretty bummed about the whole thing so I'll be looking for another one. It's self illuminating requiring no backlight. So I decided to make lemonade and install a digital voltmeter in place of the clock for now.
It's amber in color and stays mostly amber with the LCD's green lens cover to hide the pocket it sits in. I painted the inside of the housing black as the sides of the display module itself to keep it dark behind the lens.
Since the panel wasn't modified for this I can insert a clock later. I also took the switches from the panel from the lest side of the '88 to try the heat gun trick to bring back the black in the plastic. It came out ok but nothing to write home about. These will be for the cruise control I plan on installing in the large center section beneath the clock location.
I will have to modify the case behind the panel since the switches are quite deep. I won't use the original pigtails because of the depth of the panel is too shallow to get them to fit.
Instead I'll use regular spade connectors with tags to identify the terminals. I think I'll still treat the switches with protectant just to be safe.
I don't want to risk melting the small bezel around the switch. One last thing. My latest picture of Nanye-he. I looked at the high center brake lamp I took from the '95 and it will fit fine in mine. It just wasn't an option in '93 to my knowledge as the wiring is missing from the liftgate. There are two wires for a switch on the latch missing on mine to light up the rear cargo lamp not installed on mine when the liftgate is unlatched.
I can make use of those since they are already routed through the sleeve and grommet between the liftgate and body. One can be routed to the brake light circuit behind the rear driver's side interior quarter panel behind the spare tire.
The other can remain as power for the two puck lamps I want to install into the liftgate with a control switch. One of things I did not long after the 25th was the lift strut mod for the hood. I elminated the prop rod after burning the heel of my hand to lift it and get the rod in place. Never again. Two 40 pound, 17 inch extended length lift struts were just enough to get the job done.
I will probably replace them with 50 pounders an inch longer. And guess what I did last weekend! I made holes in my perfectly good hood! I added louvered hood vents to help the cooling system. Cooldowns are also much quicker and running temps are a couple degrees lower according to the gauge. I still want a gauge pod for the collant temp, transmission temp and the engine oil temp. There's a somewhat okay looking gauge pod that's outrageously priced for the A-pillar.
It's fit and finish isn't great but it puts gauges in the cabin without using up center console space. John Rochetich May 19, at AM. John Rochetich June 24, at AM.
Ksayeed September 23, at AM. Newer Post Home. Subscribe to: Post Comments Atom. This looks like a good spot for my Icom HF radio. Very clean. No sludge or build-up after K! Those cam lobes don't look quite right.
Oh really?! The bottom cushion isn't integrated into the seat back on this model. Thanks for the suggestion Jerry! Jerry also suggested the cushions can be swapped between the driver's and passenger's side.
On this type of seat, he is correct. Thought the driver's side would get all the rustention. Heater core leaks and the backing to the carpet held the moisture. The floor pan plugs also leak. Will need to replace them. Compare to the TJ accessories. Discovered the mounting bosses on this engine aren't there for the TJ brackets.
Very little room for a radiator and fan. The fit with the 4. This is why so many either go all electric fans or it winds up in the junkyard. Fan mount on the left hub with four studs and water pump on the right. I am hoping to find another solution before the fan bearing goes out. A single roller timing set in this '93 is factory. My TJ used a Silent Chain. The camshaft sprocket retaining bolt here has a pin and spring to prevent the cam from walking forward.
Oil starvation can cause the nub in the timing cover the pin presses against to wear off and cause other issues later. So far, things are looking good. No build-up on the top either. Good condition so far. Inspecting the rocker arms revealed good wear patterns. No scoring of the fulcrum surfaces or chipped tips of the valve stems. I will replace these rocker arms but keep them as spares. Like a cadet review, all lined up proper. This engine is in amazingly clean condition.
Even the factory paint marks are still present. Removing these parts will allow me to raise the lifters up onto the dowel. Looking up from below at cylinder 1's lifter bores.
Lifter on a stick. Hard to see but it was lubed up with break-in lube from Melling that was included with the cam and lifter kit. I will get some assembly grease and swipe the lobes instead of relying on the runny break-in lube before I button it up. Pushing up just high enough to get the dowel rod under it and keep it in place for now. You can just make out the dowel rod to the right of the magnet protruding past the edge of the bore.
Trying to aim the camera to reduce glare and get the scale lined up correctly isn't easy laying on your back. After the second failed shot, I made one last try but still didn't line up the scale very well.
Wire wheeled and ready for degreasing and a tack cloth. Driver's side upper shock mount. You can see what's left of the rebound bumper in the lower right where the two bolt holes are in the sub-frame. Passenger's side. Shock is mounted forward of the axle. Timing set installed and then the Sun came out from behind the clouds. The red on the end of the crankshaft is the sealant used to keep oil from getting past the harmonic balancer pulley. Classic OD Green cover installed. I used white lithium grease on the crankshaft seal.
I'll wipe that and use motor oil since that is what will be flowing through the engine. Almost 8PM so I closed up shop and put Nanye-hi pron: nun-yeh-hee to sleep for the night. Damper installed. Water pump doesn't need replacing but should be wire wheeled so the pulley sits flat on it. The tool uses a 17mm wrench and some leverage with a longer piece to break it free.
All of the pieces of the filter adapter plus tools. Wrong O-ring. Here ya go! The one on the left is the original and is correct. The one on the right came in the kit and is wrong! WTF Fel-Pro?! The anti-seize I used made thread impressions just inside the hole. The real threads start further in. Turns out there's a remnant of a broken bolt in there. Not an aluminum pan but galvanized steel. This was probably painted when new or this is an aluminized coating over steel.
Rust-seized tensioner bolt. Heating with a barbecue lighter worked when the butane micro pen torch couldn't be located. New heavy duty fan clutch for the ZJ in my XJ. Clearance isn't a problem with the 1 or 2 row radiators but may have an issue with some aftermarket 3 row versions. Believe it or not, this is the actual color of a rocker arm. Fresh oil held in the convenient cups that also act as rocker arms. The Dana 30 High Pinion HP is resting on jack stands while the control arms are lined up and bolts installed.
The floor jack was used to rotate the axle into proper pinion angle to make the control arm bolts easier to insert. Closeup of Dana's cover numbers. App Privacy. Information Seller Viacom International Inc. Size Category Education. Compatibility iPhone Requires iOS 9. Languages English, Danish. All Rights Reserved. Price Free. Family Sharing With Family Sharing set up, up to six family members can use this app.
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